Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

[foto-k10]

I do not know name of the plant but I was impressed by the size of it's leaves (it may not looks so large on a picture though):

Ohne meinen Collins sag' ich nichts.

I would guess a plant of family Araceae, may be Alocasia macrorrhizos (Riesenblättriges Pfeilblatt or Giant Taro, Giant Elephant Ear)?

[Suse]

Was the trail easy to find and to climb? I did it twice before the clearance and even found it easier before. In 2017, after the works on the trail were finished, I started the hike and gave up after some time because of the amount of people hiking up there, I just didn't want to spoil my memories of being up there only with my companions at sunset, so I can't compare how it would have been further up the hill. But the first part until you enter the shrubs, there were alreadys signs of what I would call erosion due to human activities, large parts void of any ground vegetation, just rubble that was slippery and didn't provide good grip, even when wearing appropriate shoes (what I did). I am not very skilful at climbing in general so I had some difficulties getting back down without landing directly on top of Belle Vue Restaurant.

But I understand they had to undertake the renovation, at least after the elderly tourist disappeared on the trail. There were others that had difficulties to find the trail, there even was a video on youtube where a guy who went jogging around La Digue filmed himself how he got lost up there.

Your pictures are very nice, seems you were all alone up on the peak, lucky you. Nice panorama and view which is much more to be cherished when there is no hustle and bustle around.

The plant in question is Elephant Ear, the roots are a staple food in the tropics, Taro. But as far as I understood, the Seychellois don't use this name, I called it Taro once and got a snappy anwer that "we are not in Polynesia here".

[Bong!!!]

Suse, foto-k10: Thanks for the help with identification of the plant (-:

It's true that Taro sounds somewhat polynesian - and when I googled it, turns out that it really has something to do with that part of the world (-:
http://lifeinrurutu.blogspot.com/2018/0 ... -saga.html

It's stems (on the picture in article linked above) looks like those of a Rhubarb. My wife makes a great rhubarb pie, maybe I could bring over some next time, from anywhere I'll end up next year (-:

Suse:
Regarding the hiking trail up to the Nid D'Aigle (from Belle Vue) - I'd say that it was well beaten and easy to follow, I do not recall any wrong turns along the way, I should also note that my sense of orientation is usually far from perfect (-: Maybe the part leading around the restaurant was a little confusing. And as I read what you've written - this part could be slippery after the rain, for the reasons you've mentioned - combination of higher traffic and tropical rains during which this part of the trail gets further washed.

In terms of physical difficulty, I consider the first part - steep concrete road up to the Belle Vue a bit more exhausting.

I've been alone on the top for some 15 minutes or so. After that, I've met there with my new friends I've made on La Digue (this was like 4th time we've ran into each other on the island) - a younger couple from Austria or Italy, only thing I know for sure is they took flight from Vienna as I did. And since I know only curses in both German and Italian language, we talked in English (-: Thinking back I do not recall any accent typical for Italians, so they must've been from Austria I think... But they were mentioning Italy on a several occasions for sure, maybe they were living near borders... I guess that this little fact will remain secret... (-:

They actually overtook me at the fork near virgin Mary when I was taking pictures as they were better equipped - proper hiking shoes while I was wearing flip flops They came later because they went to explore this trail, leading from the top:


I've checked just part of it as they've claimed that there's nothing much interesting a I haven't planned to go that way either.

Anyway, that reminded me of a some sort of an unofficial trail that should lead from somewhere around Nid D'Aigle towards Patatran hotel. Maybe it was mentioned on this forum ? Not sure, it's been some time I've came across this information...

[foto-k10]

It's stems (on the picture in article linked above) looks like those of a Rhubarb. My wife makes a great rhubarb pie, maybe I could bring over some next time, from anywhere I'll end up next year (-:

You want to "import" rhubarb pie to Seychelles?
I think it is not allowed. Only food, that is sealed in plastic. Even a simple apple you have to throw away at immigration.

Anyway, that reminded me of a some sort of an unofficial trail that should lead from somewhere around Nid D'Aigle towards Patatran hotel. Maybe it was mentioned on this forum ? Not sure, it's been some time I've came across this information...

I don't know, if information was here in forum. Someone wrote, that path ends in the middle of nowhere. It would continue over high rocks, so stepping down 3m you will not be able to get up again without a rope, if you have to turn back. Scrubs with thorns makes no fun. Also: will you come out at Patatran Hotel or at La Passe? Are parts of a very old path private property? Is there another fork to east cost?

[Bong!!!]

You want to "import" rhubarb pie to Seychelles?
I think it is not allowed. Only food, that is sealed in plastic. Even a simple apple you have to throw away at immigration.

Sorry, I've put wording in a confusing manner - I meant that next time, I could take few Taro stems back home, so my wife can make pie out of it, in a same way she makes a rhubarb pie (-: Since the Taro stems looks similar to those of Rhubarb.

I don't know, if information was here in forum. Someone wrote, that path ends in the middle of nowhere. It would continue over high rocks, so stepping down 3m you will not be able to get up again without a rope, if you have to turn back. Scrubs with thorns makes no fun. Also: will you come out at Patatran Hotel or at La Passe? Are parts of a very old path private property? Is there another fork to east cost?

I'm not sure if this trail is even somehow related to the one that I've circled on a map above. Fact that the trail ends in the middle of nowhere (the one marked on a map above) was confirmed by fellow hikers I've met at Nid D'Aigle.

Another trail (the one that is supposed to end somewhere near Patatran) isn't probably indicated on Openstreetmaps, definitely not completely. I'll try to reverse search original post here, see if I'll be able to find it. Fact that I'm viewing this forum through translator complicates this kind of search a little (-:

[foto-k10]

I meant that next time, I could take few Taro stems back home, so my wife can make pie out of it, in a same way she makes a rhubarb pie (-: Since the Taro stems looks similar to those of Rhubarb.

I hope you will not be disappointed:

They don't really have a taste - it's the nice, crunchy texture Vietnamese cooks love - and the way the built-in straws soak up soups and broths.

And if your "In the mountains..." is inside EU, you will have the same problem, that your are not allowed to import raw vegetables and other food.

I'm not sure if this trail is even somehow related to the one that I've circled on a map above. Fact that the trail ends in the middle of nowhere (the one marked on a map above) was confirmed by fellow hikers I've met at Nid D'Aigle.

Your map is so small, that I can't see anything. But I know OSM-maps and there is a trail ending somewhre in the middle.

What I know: around 20 years ago must be a trail from La Passe up to Nid D'Aigle with a minor incline and you don't have to use the street to Belle Vue. But I don't know details. And such trails often lead over private property. 20 years ago may be no problem, because area was used as meadow or for banana plants. But nowadays there may be buildings with people living there, who will not be amused, if someone else will trespassing. Also density of dogs per square meter is raised up during last decade.

I found another description here in forum, please translate yourself:

Die Wanderung auf die Spitze von La Digue ist mir aus 2006 noch gut im Gedächtnis - ich gehe mal davon aus, dass ihr oben dann umgedreht seid und wieder den gleichen Rückweg eingeschlagen habt??
Wir haben das nämlich nicht gemacht ("gleicher Weg zurück ist blöd") - und dann...dann sind wir mitten im Urwald schon fast verschollen, haben uns von Wespen stechen lassen und ich habe mich am Ende des Tages noch nie in meinem Leben so über eine Straße gefreut - wir sind nämlich durch den Wald in Richtung Nordwesten weitergeklettert...Irgendwann kamen wir dann auf dem Weg an...

[Bong!!!]

Mahé day #1
It's 7:00 and I'm already waiting at the jetty, ferry to Mahé is scheduled to leave at 7:30 (just checked my e-mail, 7:30 is correct). Leaving La Digue behind and I'm really glad that I've made the decision to travel, because as I've pointed out in my previous posts, I'm not sure if I'll be able to see the island like this in a future, feel that atmosphere... But one never knows these days.

Anyway, Mahé is waiting and the ship is about to go:


With a brief stop on Praslin:


I've always found Mahé somewhat too big, too developed and too busy (for a Seychelles standards, mind you), when I think about it I don't have much of a popular spots / beaches there either. Don't get me wrong, I've enjoyed evert visit and have many fond memories of the island, but I just usually feel it this way, can't help myself. Fact, that I've always visited this island as a last one might contributed to that too.

This time, I'm staying at les Canelles Rd., at the Anse La Mouche area side of the hill, I have planned something for both north and south of the island so I've opted for more of a central location. I had a room reserved at Chez Batista, but later decided to cancel it because with initial ferry leaving time from La Digue, I wasn't sure If I'll make it before it gets dark - I don't like driving on the mountain roads during the night. Plus the location thing.

Brief stop at Anse Royale to buy a few Seybrews (they're unaware of a Seybrew t-shirt promo), it's Sunday around 10:00, so the beer is packed into an opaque shopping bag (-:


I think that every time I take a peek at Anse Royale beach, regardless of the time of year, it's affected by an algae... The same goes for the nearby town / village in terms of the number of addicts (-: Never spent much time here.


Heat is immense, so I'm heading to the Takamaka beach and immediately noticed that something is different:
2021

2019


New artificial barrier on the right side of the beach made of granite blocks:
2021

2019


Well, anyway...

Color combination of this particular crab is quite unique, so I had to take a picture. Taste-wise, I think it would be somewhere between red and the blue one (-:


Heading further south and stopping at the Anse Bazarca:


Then a short hike to the Petite Police:


And later towards Police Bay:


Sea is rather rough so I'm staying at the beach, relaxing and watching the ocean... Nobody around except for one couple with a guide / taxi driver who came to take a quick peek. My opinion about this beach is similar to those larger beaches on the west coast of La Digue - nice indeed, but too large and unfortunately, most of the time, not exactly safe to swim. But here, it's at least quieter (in terms of visitors). Hope it'll stay as it is.

On the way back, I realized that I still have plenty of time - when I'm hanging around Takamaka it might not be a bad idea to check out nearby rock pool I've heard about during previous trip. Now there's even a (not official) signpost. Trail starts near Batista and it's going through some sort of a shop through opened gate.

Beginning of the trail is well beaten, however, later it splits to some dead ends and I'm ending up at the rocks adjacent to the Batista with a nice view inside the rooms (and access too), good to know (-: But apart from that, nothing serious.

Trail looked like this most of the time, unfortunately, I don't have much pictures as I had to conserve the battery:


Lot of nice views of the bay from the opposite side:


After some time, I came to a pile of a larger rocks in the jungle that required some climbing. Since I was alone with nobody around and lost signal reception on my phone, with almost dead battery (powerbank in my glove compartment, yes...), I've decided to go back, just to play it safe. But it was a nice walk indeed. So the rock pool near Anse Takama - maybe next time... (-:

It's a high tide, so I'm stopping for a swim at Baie Lazare + later lunch at the restaurant nearby, La Goulette. One of my favorite places on Mahé, both beach and the restaurant (-:


Gift from my host, a fresh citronella. I'm making a tea out of it as a mosquito repelent (-: Wish I had it before my early morning trip to the cemetery on La Digue... Always found mosquitos on La Digue the worst...


And that's about it for the day, time to take a shower & open a Seybrew (-:

[Bong!!!]

I hope you will not be disappointed:

They don't really have a taste - it's the nice, crunchy texture Vietnamese cooks love - and the way the built-in straws soak up soups and broths.

Well, I'm not completely sure but I think that Ruharb is rather tasteless too and you have to add lot of sugar to it (if you're making a pie)... But I would have to ask my wife about this one... (-:

And if your "In the mountains..." is inside EU, you will have the same problem, that your are not allowed to import raw vegetables and other food.

I'm aware of that, but... Truth is, when I'm returning from an long distance trip in the tropics, it's usually checked luggage full of food and fresh fruits (having checked luggage mostly just for this purpose) and a backpack full of cigarettes (depending on stopover airports / final destination). So far good... I know it's not right but cigarettes are just for my own use (or as a gifts) and regarding the fresh fruit... Well, no way it would germinate in the mountains, right... (-: And for the bugs, I check everything carefully.

Your map is so small, that I can't see anything. But I know OSM-maps and there is a trail ending somewhre in the middle.

It's a thumbnail - opens full size image when you click it, I prefer not to put large imgs directly to the thread, in my opinion, thumbnails are more comfortable for everyone...

What I know: around 20 years ago must be a trail from La Passe up to Nid D'Aigle with a minor incline and you don't have to use the street to Belle Vue. But I don't know details. And such trails often lead over private property. 20 years ago may be no problem, because area was used as meadow or for banana plants. But nowadays there may be buildings with people living there, who will not be amused, if someone else will trespassing. Also density of dogs per square meter is raised up during last decade.

I found another description here in forum, please translate yourself:

Die Wanderung auf die Spitze von La Digue ist mir aus 2006 noch gut im Gedächtnis - ich gehe mal davon aus, dass ihr oben dann umgedreht seid und wieder den gleichen Rückweg eingeschlagen habt??
Wir haben das nämlich nicht gemacht ("gleicher Weg zurück ist blöd") - und dann...dann sind wir mitten im Urwald schon fast verschollen, haben uns von Wespen stechen lassen und ich habe mich am Ende des Tages noch nie in meinem Leben so über eine Straße gefreut - wir sind nämlich durch den Wald in Richtung Nordwesten weitergeklettert...Irgendwann kamen wir dann auf dem Weg an...

Yes, that's a good point - it might've been some older thread that is not relevant as of today. Will look more into it tomorrow...

[foto-k10]

@Mr. NextTime: leaving La Digue early with the ferry, smartphone battery is not full loaded?

[Bong!!!]

Of course it was, as every morning (-: Moreover, I always connect a powerbank between the device and power grid. Especially in countries like Seychelles, where power grid might be unreliable from time to time. Or the local electric installation could be sometimes, well, not exactly in line with standards, so to speak (-:

Anyway, good observation. But these days, with phones loaded with bunch of connected apps, videocalls, various types of power-intensive usage with brightness at 100% during sunny days etc., on the day like this I usually connect powerbank in the afternoon.

Another thing is, that I've just measured (using an app) approx. remaining battery capacity and it's like 65%. So, it's about time to replace the battery, I already have new one on my desk, but it's not that easy task, as it used to be

[Suse]

Taro tastes like nothing, if there is any taste at all it's perhaps more like very bland sweet potatoes. It's more of a tummy-filling side dish.

I bet, to swap accommodation was a good idea, I've heard so many negative comments about Batista and his attitude. Today in Seychelles dedicated him a long article in their Sunday's Edition only recently, what a cornerstone of Seychelles hospitality he is and whatnot. Dude must take himself for something special, just my two cents.

The Rock Pools have become super instagrammable, it seems the two dead tourists from India that got sucked out by the waves this summer made it even more popular. Although it's a relatively easy hike not as half as many people used to do it before the Pandemic, at least that is my impression after the number of people commenting on this spot.

For the trails from Nid d'Aigle to Patatran, there are ruins of old dwellings in the shrubs, I've seen photos of that (I'd never dare try this hike) but no longer a trail that deserves the name. Perhaps there are Locals that can find their way, but whatever path there is, it's overgrown and unbeknownst to Tourists. I remember especially one posting in the forum, where the attempt to make a shortcut from the top of the mountain to Patatran went badly wrong, I'll see, if I can find this.

Die mit Abstand verrückteste Geschichte lieferten aber zwei Urlauber, die nach erfolgreichem Aufstieg zum Adlernest auf die mehr als fragwürdige Idee kamen, sich den mühsamen Abstieg und Rückweg über die ganze Insel doch ganz einfach zu sparen und am besten gleich rechts runter zum Patatran zu laufen...

Gesagt - getan! Nach zwei Stunden (!) blessurenreicher Wanderung hatten sie die Orientierung vollständig verloren, sie befanden sich immer noch deutlich in Höhenlage. Sie entschieden dann, wieder zurück auf's Adlernest zu steigen, fanden den "Rückweg" aber auch nicht mehr und irrten weitere vier Stunden durch den Hang, bis einer der beiden nach eigenem Bekunden vier Meter tief abstürzte und sich dabei erhebliche Wunden zuzog. Nun saßen sie endgültig fest und das wäre es wohl gewesen, wenn nicht plötzlich ein Seychellois mitten aus dem Unterholz getreten wäre und sie zielstrebig dort herausgeführt hätte!

The posting is from 2010, you'll find the travel report on page 10 in the "Reiseberichte" category, the title is "La Digue Brutal". You can't comment, it's closed.

[cheva]

thanks for the fresh photos from Batista/ Takamaka. Looks not nice the new big building directly at the beach, but was expected...

[Bong!!!]

Christmas & New year are finally over (-: All the best in year 2022 to everyone I feel that I could use another two weeks in Seychelles (or a similar place), I mean, It's been always several kilograms of weight down after return - no stress, lot of hiking... Regarding the food - mostly fresh fish & fresh fruit, overall a healthy vacation... (-: Not so much calories burnt during a week when i spent most of the time skiing.

Suse:
Thanks for the additional info on Taro, I've asked my wife about Rhubarb and it's a bit sour-ish, so taste-wise, there is a difference... I thought that Rhubar is kind of tasteless too (-:

I'm aware of the fact that Batista's reviews are somewhat... Inconsistent, so to speak... I've liked it's location and surroundings but it was the only bright side from my point of view, that's true. Wanted to give it a try. Arrival time was the key factor but there was another downsides too. Ratings, as you've pointed out + I usually prefer an apartment as it usually comes with more space and privacy. I was thinking that I could put aside the latter, for this time (as I don't spend much time in hotel anyway) but at the end of the day, I think it was a good idea to swap accommodation.

Regarding the rock pool at Anse Takamaka - I've just checked Google and I see 45 reviews, I would swear that in June, there was only like 4 reviews or so... Interesting, I wouldn't expect this, I mean, I saw the place just on the pictures, that's true, but it does not look that spectacular. At least for a Seychelles standards. Accident you mentioned - looking again at the pictures, and yes, there's a probability of such scenario.
And as far as I can remember, there (at Takamaka) are often, I guess thanks to it's location and larger drop, these (kind of) sneaker waves - one significantly bigger wave after series of an ordinary ones. I've learned that hard way - years ago in Greece, when I swam into a small cave and then a few bigger waves came. Cave itself has turned into a huge washing machine with myself in it. I felt like a rag doll + sharp rocks everywhere. It must've took just approx. 20 seconds tops but it felt like eternity. Not that I was somewhat careless before, but after this incident, I never underestimate power of the water and especially, when there are rocks around.

The post you're quoted - I think that's it. As I've mentioned, reverse search on this forum is not easy since it's written (apart from local names) in German and I'm viewing it in English. I might've misunderstood that post too, since translators are developing quickly. Even now, when I read machine translated text, it sometimes requires fair amount of own fantasy and additional searches to determine it's content (-:

cheva:
Welcome. Together with a new barier at the northern part of the beach, whole place has changed.

There's one more picture of it:


Mahé day #2, part 1


For today, I've planned some hiking. I'm heading north towards Bel Ombre, stopping near La Scala restaurant beginning with Anse Major. I think that I was there only once and wasn't exactly impressed. Trail itself is nice with a scenic views along but the beach(es) weren't my cup of tea. Back then, there was lot of visitors too. This time, I'm starting at 7:00, so it should be more quiet.

While both Praslin and La Digue were rather deserted, Mahé has a lot more tourists - in actual comparison. Mostly from Russia...

I still can't believe that I have such nice and sunny weather all the time (-:


Trail start (I wonder how long is that piece of wood nailed to that signpost):


I was thinking about exploring small beaches adjacent to Anse Major, so this time, I'm taking hiking shoes. But storing hiking flip flops in my backpack as well, just in case (-: Using Salomon XA Amphibs for climbing over the wet rocks, they offer a good grip but unfortunately, despite it's quick drying design, they do not dry quickly enough in the tropic environment... At least they're light and does not take up much space in backpack.


First section of the trail:


I've spotted some small creatures crawling through the dry laves fallen to the ground. Something between mouse and tapir (-: Took me several attempts to make a "decent" picture.


Surounding jungle is full of spiders, and therefore, I'm not sure about my exploration plans around Anse Major...

Trail leads along water pipes for most of the time...


As I've mentioned above, views are nice, especially when the sky is clear:


Silhouette and North Island (latter in the background):


I've always wanted to hike from La Passe to Grand Barbe on Silhoutte Island. I was considering to change Mahé for Silhoutte, but I've decided to postpone it again. I will visit Silhoutte, but probably next time, with my wife and kids - when they'll be a bit older. I think they would like it. Apart from that, I've been told that Labriz was almost fully booked at the time, with most of the guests coming from Russia, so...

First view of Anse Major beach from the trail:


Last part of the trail is going through jungle:


Pasing around some sort of (I think) water treatment station ?


Rundown shack on at the first section of the beach, looks like a popular spot:


Both sections of Anse Major:


Someone had an idea...
https://www.snpa.gov.sc/index.php/about ... d-shelters

But it did not turn out well...


I'm leaving around 9:00, at the middle of the trail I already hear some Russian visitors, I think they must be at the start, they could be heard from a long distance... (-:

There's a limit of 40 links per post, so I've decided to split this day into two posts...

[foto-k10]

Is there still an old VW Beetle at the beginning of Anse Major trail or was it terminally rosted?

[Suse]

I wish you a happy new year too. Stay positive in terms of travels and negative in times of pandemic.

I've spotted some small creatures crawling through the dry laves fallen to the ground. Something between mouse and tapir (-: Took me several attempts to make a "decent" picture.

It's a Tenrek. They are like hedgehogs, kind of. You are lucky, they are not easily spotted in nature. I know someone who raised some abandoned babies by bottle-feeding and kept them as pets. Cute little critters.