Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

[Bong!!!]

I've been reading this forum for like 10 years and since it's been source of all kind of valuable information, I've decided to contribute something too, at least some travelogue (-: I'm not a german speaker though, hope you won't mind if my write-up will be in English ? After all, it's one of the official languages in Seychelles, my most favourite destination and a reason why I came to this forum. Now, due to the fact I've contracted Covid (despite being 2x jabbed with Pfizer) and being isolated from my family at the moment, plenty of time to write something too (-:

I've been visiting Seychelles each year for some time and altough I've promised myself that my previous visit in 2019 was also the last one, Covid situation made me to change my mind about that. First, I took it as an opportunity to experience Seychelles under say, more "quiet" and less busy circumstances. Second, since I like to travel, I've opted for Seychelles simple for a reason that I already know it well there, some kind of "assurance" in these strange times.

I'll cover my last visit in 2021 in this travelogue.

I flew to Seychelles in the past with Qatar Airways, Etihad, Swiss, Alitalia, Emirates, Air France... As far as I can remember...

But my most favourite airline for this particular trip is the Ethiopian Airlines (-: Why ? Quick layovers, decent departure & arrival times from VIE, decent service and last but not least, I've always liked Bole International airport in Addis. As it always made some kind of a nice exotic foreplay to another trip to exotic Seychelles. Airports in middle east might be fancy, but kinda sterile as well, from my point of view. Some shopping could be done there too - cigarettes on the way in, kilograms of coffee on the way back. Airport itself saw some significant improvements in terms of overall quality and facilities over the last years. You can also meet interesting people visiting interesting places - traveling via Addis, it's still kind of a special thing that you have in common, so you can talk about it. Unlike layover in LHR / CDG for example (-:
Ethiopian Airlines are also offering complementary Covid related costs insurance, sufficient for entry to Seychelles.Alredy included in ticket price.

Pictures below are from my 2021 visit, I'm sorry for a lower quality of some them, in terms of composition etc. - I haven't planned this kind of use and since it wasn't my first visit, most of it was taken as a documentary just to be shared back home with my family...

So, here we go...

Flight from Vienna to Mahé

Vienna HbF welcomes me in late afternoon, I like good connection to the main station and following connection to the airport.


Where I was just hanging arround waiting for my 22:35 flight to Addis, since the operation of lounges has been limited due to the current situation... Visitors deck has been closed too, at least I'm checking aircraft model collection on 3rd floor.


Load factor on the flight from VIE to ADD was like 30% or so. Poor man's business class it is then (-:


Flight arrives on time, 5:55 in the morning, Bole International Airport. Compared to the previous years, airport is less busy. One thing I don't like though - double security check during layover. Also, staff at security check was more focused on the lighters in carry-on bags. These are forbidden in ADD, normally, it was just enought to tuck it in the clothes in the backpack... This time, they've took all 3 lighters I've had hidden in 3 different compartments... Matches next time (-: Some passengers in smoking room had their lighters with them though.
Anyway, I'll stop asking "First time in Addis ?" fellow travelers asking for the lighter in the smoking room lol...


This coffee shop at the airport is a new addition since my last visit in 2018, coffee (brewed) quality saw huge improvement too (-: Prices are in USD.


Lod factor of the flight from ADD to SEZ was like 50%, new Covid related immigration form has been introduced too, not much difference from the original one on the left though...


Descending to Mahe Airport, weather looks promising, usually, I'm bringing rain with me...


After landing (14:20), I'm taken aside by a lovely lady from immigration office at the airport, she takes my pasport (issued 2016) and start to ask questions...

"You've been here in 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019..."
"Why you haven't been here in 2020 ???"
"Well, I'd like to visit, but Covid, you know..."
"What is the purpose of your visit ???"
"Eh, holidays..?" (I've came here to pick mushrooms my a**...)

Later I've realized that there was 2020 stamp from Mauritius immigration office, maybe that could've been some kind of trigger ? I know that there is a tension, to some extent, between Creoles and Indians, but, I dunno... Return from Mauritius was almost huge adventure, since it took place in 2020, exactly when the sh*t hit the fan, but that'll be another story...

Anyway, Immigration sorted out quickly, and due to the half-empty plane I've managed to take short break in front of the airport before my connection flight to Praslin (15:20). As I've mentioned above, this kind of sunny view is not usual in my case, when I travel to Seychelles.


I always prefer to catch a domestic flight to Praslin right after arrival to Mahe Airport. Price difference is just 30 EUR over the combination of a taxi + ferry and it's more comfortable. Love the views from the Twin Otter too. Opted for a back seat this time.


View over the golf course from the Twin Otter, Praslin, Anse Kerlan area:


Praslin day #1
No time to waste, I'm collecting my car, putting my backpack in a guesthouse and head to the beach. Wanted to check what's new on Anse Lazio, but it's already 16:30 and I'm a bit dizzy after the flight, so I'm stopping at Anse Boudin near Raffles. I saw pictures of the hill without Raffles and it's villas and I wonder how it must've looked in reality...


Praslin day #2
Next day, I'm already up at 5:00, good time for a planned morning Glacis Noir hike. Weather is still great. Hike is rather short, took me approx. 45 minutes one way, taking pictures included. Path is visible and well beaten. There's also a shelter built approx. half way to the top. Views from the fire tower are indeed beatiful. Trail starts above entrance to the Vallée de Mai and it's sign posted (which is a new thing if I remember well).
Picture gallery, had to remove thumbnails because total URLs in post have exceeded 40:
https://abload.de/gallery.php?key=kiVUgeBD

Added on 6.12.

After the hike, I've moved to the Anse La Blague. From the three "main" islands, Praslin is my favourite - plenty of nice smaller beaches where one could swim and with a few exceptions, it's an overall quiet place - compared with Mahé and La Digue. But I still don't mean it as those two islands are somewhat noisy and overly busy (-: Anse La Blague is one of my favourite parts of the island, as it is quiet for most of the time.


Horizontal palm at Anse la Blague, but not enough horizontal to sit on it in order to take pictures for social networks, maybe that's the reason why it's still there (-:


After some time spent on the beach, I've decided to pack my stuff and do some exploring arround. Walking south east through Anse La Blague village and my goal is to find trailhead leading to Anse La Farine - secluded beach with abandoned hotel. Hotel itself was used by Italian Mafia for money laundering, at least according to the local gossip (-:

So I've climbed up the hill above Anse La Blague:


And no luck, trailhead should be located on the hill, but it might have been overgrown ? I've spent some time up there, looking for it but without success.

Below the hill, there was a fork on the road, so I decided to do some exploring in that way too. Concrete road was quite steep and leaded me to an excavated plot of the land, at that moment, being overgrown. Place had no beach access, maybe that's the reason why the construction has been delayed, or maybe cancelled, who knows...


View from the rocky coastline on the Anse La Blague:


Back at the Anse La Blague, I've met local fisherman at the beach, whom I've asked about directions to Anse La Farine on my way through the village. He offers me a boat ride with approx. 2 hrs. on the beach for 30 EUR, or less if I consider it too much. I had to refuse, since I've planned to WALK to that beach and taking a boat ride, I would consider that a cheating (-: So, maybe next time ? Always took my time when walking arround the islands, always saved something to look forward for the next trip...

After some time spent at the Anse La Blague beach, I'm moving to the Anse Lazio. I consider it a nice beach indeed. But generally speaking, in Seychelles, I prefer more "cozy" and quiet places. Here's a few pictures of the building site behind the beach and of the beach itself. I'll leave evaluation of the current status to you. I do not consider all the development necessary, I've even heard, that gated (and charged) parking lot is planned, but haven't checked / confirmed this particular information. But who am I to judge..?


I usually stop at the Honesty Bar for a cold Seybrew and little talk with the owners, but it's closed and their property is fenced behind the beach - according to the sign on the fence, for the protection of local fauna and flora. Walked up, but nobody there. Later I saw Alwyn's wife rushing over the beach & upstairs, so they've probably not moved from their place. I know about the case of development of their land at Anse Lazio, but I do not judge that.

On my way back home, I just make last stop at Zimbabwe point, to check out the views. More than enough for one day, when I read it (-:


That's it for today, thanks for the reading (-: I should go sleep... I think it'll be better and more comfortable to split this travelogue into few posts... I'll post the next part tomorrow.

[foto-k10]

Hope you don't mind, if I answer in german:
Du hast anscheinend zuviel Brotbaumfrucht genascht?

Ethopian Airlines hat einen gravierenden Nachteil: Ankunft erst um ca. 14 Uhr. Da ist der Tag schon fast vorbei.

Am Zugang zum Glacis Noir war früher ein einfaches Schild ohne Karte und Informationen. Die kleinen Schilder - quasi "Mutmacher", dass es nur noch ein kurzes Stück ist - sind relativ neu. Die Schutzhütte gab es ebenfalls vor vielen Jahren, vielleicht irgendwann neu gebaut, weil die alte verfallen war.

P.S.: Gute Besserung.

[Bong!!!]

Hope you don't mind, if I answer in german:
Du hast anscheinend zuviel Brotbaumfrucht genascht?

It's OK, I'm viewing forum thru translator, so I can understand most of the text (-: Altough, your second sentence translates as "You seem to have eaten too much bread tree fruit?"

That is some kind of idiom ?

Yes, you're right about afternoon arrival in SEZ with Ethiopian. Certainly, It'll be better if the arrival time would be in the morning. But from my point of view, first day, especially after longer fligt is usually still "broken" - transfers, all sorts of formalities and moving into accomodation takes time... On the other hand (in case of flight from VIE), departure is at 22:35, so you have most of the day or you don't have to take day off for departure. And departure from SEZ is at 17:45, that means almost full day in Seychelles on the day of departure. We usually spending it at Anse la Liberte with our luggage in the trunk of our car, if the place where we staying is not along the road to the airport. And next day, you're back in VIE at 5:55 so you can head from the airport straight to the office

Thanks for the additional info regarding Glacis Noir - haven't been there before and I was aware only of the fire tower, not the shelter. It's probably rebuilt, looked that way. Benches and table made from recycled plastics.

I'm going to update first post to complete the information about day No. 1 (-:

[foto-k10]

Hope you don't mind, if I answer in german:
Du hast anscheinend zuviel Brotbaumfrucht genascht?

It's OK, I'm viewing forum thru translator, so I can understand most of the text (-: Altough, your second sentence translates as "You seem to have eaten too much bread tree fruit?"

That is some kind of idiom ?

Translator works correctly. It's a kind of rumour, that if you eat bread tree fruit during holidays on Seychelles, you will return for a next vacation.

I normally prefer direct flight with Condor form Frankfurt hoping no hyperactive person sitting next to me or a small child is crying all the night. So with 5 to 6 hours of sleep I can use the first day. Of course after dinner I drop off to sleep. Before Corona Condor had a flight on Saturday at 23 o'clock. If you stay at last 2 weeks in your guest house, sometimes they allow you to stay longer in your room. Otherwise all hotels should have a room to store your luggage, so you can spend the last day at the beach.

[Suse]

I remember you writing some time ago your next trip to Seychelles would be the last. So time has proven you wrong.

To my liking, regardless of all the circumstances, people who managed to go to Seychelles during the pandemic are enviable. To be able to see the Island's beaches pristine and the trails deserted, that has become rare the last decade. With your frequent visits during the last years you'll surely have noticed the difference. I'm looking forward to the next sequel of your report.

[Bong!!!]

*FIRST POST COMPLETELY UPDATED*

Translator works correctly. It's a kind of rumour, that if you eat bread tree fruit during holidays on Seychelles, you will return for a next vacation.

I normally prefer direct flight with Condor form Frankfurt hoping no hyperactive person sitting next to me or a small child is crying all the night. So with 5 to 6 hours of sleep I can use the first day. Of course after dinner I drop off to sleep. Before Corona Condor had a flight on Saturday at 23 o'clock. If you stay at last 2 weeks in your guest house, sometimes they allow you to stay longer in your room. Otherwise all hotels should have a room to store your luggage, so you can spend the last day at the beach.

Ah, never heard this one... (-: Thanks for the explanation.

We'll see... It's true that there are still some places on my wishlist in Sey that I'd like to visit. It felt like Seychelles will become less and less special if I'll be visiting too often. But Covid changed the rules a bit. My next travel "window" is October / November 2022, so I still have plenty of time to think. But the truth is, I'm considering French Polynesia for the next trip. Should be easier to book some nice place on Maupiti under current circumstances, not sure about the flights though, haven't checked at least actual schedule of Air Tahiti.

Depends on the hotel / guesthouse location on Mahé... If it's located on the way to the airport, we usually leave our luggage there - in the designated room, or as a lete check out. If not, we leave luggage in the car. I'm well aware of the dark side of the paradise, but so far, nothing happened. This time, I was staying at Les Canelles Rd., so I've had late check out and just stopped there on my way to the airport. This time, late check out wasn't problem anywhere, since in every place I've stayed, I was the only guest...

I remember you writing some time ago your next trip to Seychelles would be the last. So time has proven you wrong.

To my liking, regardless of all the circumstances, people who managed to go to Seychelles during the pandemic are enviable. To be able to see the Island's beaches pristine and the trails deserted, that has become rare the last decade. With your frequent visits during the last years you'll surely have noticed the difference. I'm looking forward to the next sequel of your report.

Well, one never knows

Yes, there was a significant difference, even though I usually seek rarther deserted places in Seychelles. Especially La Digue, that was completely different world. More on that in my next posts. Later, I've learned that during my visit, Praslin and La Digue had several local outbreaks of Covid so many of the locals have stayed at home too. According to the information from Seychellois I've discussed this, chinese vaccines that goverment obtained - wasn't exactly functional... But, since I've contracted Covid too, despite being vaccinated with Pfizer, well, anyway...

Circumstances are dire at the moment, but still, I'm glad I've taken my chance and visited Seychelles. Because as you've mentioned - this is something rare and there might not be another chance.

[foto-k10]

Horizontal palm at Anse la Blague, but not enough horizontal to sit on it in order to take pictures for social networks, maybe that's the reason why it's still there (-:

Palm trees are growing vertically. Bending to the side so much the palm lost good hold in the ground. At the end it will fall to the ground and die. It's a foolish behavour to speed up this process for the photo number 1.000.001

So I've climbed up the hill above Anse La Blague:


And no luck, trailhead should be located on the hill, but it might have been overgrown ? I've spent some time up there, looking for it but without success.

Trail to Anse Farine is still existing, but not exactly at the spot you where on these three pictures.
Entrance to the trail is difficult to find.
And being on the trail means: walking down over small rocks and fallen over trees. Often you have to guess, where the trail may continue. All the time you are in the shadow without view to the beach. And if you don't find someone with a boat at Anse Farine you have to step up all the trail again.

Below the hill, there was a fork on the road, so I decided to do some exploring in that way too. Concrete road was quite steep and leaded me to an excavated plot of the land, at that moment, being overgrown. Place had no beach access, maybe that's the reason why the construction has been delayed, or maybe cancelled, who knows...

I also walked this way down thinking it may be an old agricultural road to supply the former hotel at Anse Farine. So I was disappointed to step up all the way again. Do you seen the rockskipper down at the coastline?

[Bong!!!]

Praslin day #3
One of my favorite hiking trails - from Mt. Plaisir to Anse Georgette. I'm leaving my car at Lemuria and walking all the way up. After few hundred meters, car stops near me, turns out that it's one of the local guys I already know from my previous visits, he's offering me a lift to the top, but that'll be cheating so I'm turning his generous offer down (-: Some locals waiting at the nerby bus stop are applauding...


I've observed that there is a new asphalt road, I was confused for a few seconds and missed the turn to the trail...(-:


But it's where it should be (-:


Going hiking early in the morning has a disadvantages as well - since nobody has walked there before me on that day - it was me who hit a large spiderweb across the path right with my face. For the next 30 minutes I'm cleaning those thick and sticky fibers off my head...


Views along the trail are amazing, every time it's always like first time... I've took that empty bottle with me and later threw it into trash...


View of Anse Georgette before descending:


Crabs were active during the night, I've probably never seen that much holes in the sand here... Or maybe it's because the beach was less busy these days ? It's true that I've saw like 50% less people than usual. 50:50 hotel guests and day trippers. I think I was there alone for some time.


Haven't met guys selling coconuts, fruit plates etc. this time on the beach. I've been exchanging cigarettes for the fruit platters / coconuts with them in the past (-: Later, at Anse Volbert, I've been told that they have some sort of a beef with the hotel, they've been calling police on them and so on, and for that reason, they aren't there anymore. I've never saw them as any kind of a problem, they were always courteous and not pushy when selling their stuff.

I always stop at Anse Kerlan beach for a walk, for some shopping at Super Value and to check if that ridiculous ad for a juice is still there. It is, so, for 2021 - checked



In general, I like Anse Kerlan area on Praslin - it's rather quiet and both Anse Georgette and Anse Lazio could be reached on foot from there. Anse Kerlan itself is a nice beach too, including section fenced by Lemuria, so getting there could be a hassle sometimes as their security are more protective over it. Thing is, if you're walking, you have to go through their property and along the villas. I've heard that they've got some problems with non guests using their facilities, towels, loungers etc., not sure to what extent is it true. Anyway, in order to get there, it's better not to look as day tripper (backpack into the beach bag + flip flops on) and don't ask questions.

One disadvantage I can think of - being in the quieter part of the island, there's only one restaurant as far as I know - Capricorn, which, if nothing changed had rather poor quality / price ratio. Altough the staff was always lovely and nice...

Also, I've spent here my first holiday in Seychelles staying in Islander. Beach in front of them is affected by an erosion (as many other beaches in Seychelles), rocks making an artifacial barier have been re-aranged previous year. Unfortunately, I don't have the pictures at hand, to show you the difference.

"Public" part of Anse Kerlan beach, near Islander:


Anse Kerlan beach, which is accessible on foot through Lemuria property:


I've heard that before the erosion severely afected Anse Kerlan beach, it was posible to walk on the beach all the way to the area where Lemuria and golf course has been built. I would certainly appreciate some pictures of the beach at that time, if anyone could share (-:

[Bong!!!]

Trail to Anse Farine is still existing, but not exactly at the spot you where on these three pictures.
Entrance to the trail is difficult to find.
And being on the trail means: walking down over small rocks and fallen over trees. Often you have to guess, where the trail may continue. All the time you are in the shadow without view to the beach. And if you don't find someone with a boat at Anse Farine you have to step up all the trail again.

Yes, those photos were "looking" opposite direction. Maybe this one is more accurate ?


But is it on the top of that hill ? Above the paved road... As I've marked with arrow on the view from La Digue...:


Do you have any picture of the trail entrance by any chance ?

I also walked this way down thinking it may be an old agricultural road to supply the former hotel at Anse Farine. So I was disappointed to step up all the way again. Do you seen the rockskipper down at the coastline?

The road was qiute steep for sure (-: But the views were nice, I'd say, it was woth the walk (-: No, I haven't unfortunately. When it comes this kind of spotting, I got poor luck. I usually see only spiders and crabs, somtimes bull-bull...

[foto-k10]

Yes, those photos were "looking" opposite direction. Maybe this one is more accurate ?

Nope.

I will send you a private message later ...

What I can say to the public: where the concrete road make the left turn down to the coastline it should be possible to walk straight ahead into the scrubs. But this trail ends after a while. Can't image, that young people uses this spot to make party. So far away from civilisation, too difficult to carry beer etc.? May someone used this place to hide from police? I don't know.

I stepped down to the coastline first. So after back on the top I was exhausted. When I was on the trail to Anse la Farine and there was no view to the beach, I decided to turn back. So I can't guarantee trail is walkable all the way down. On the way back I see a professional made sign "Anse la Blague". So may be during time of New Emerald Cove people used regular this trail. Nowadays only a few people who wants to see a lost place and don't want to make the easy way by boat will use this path. With closing down Seychelles for tourists, the amount of those people is simply zero for a year. Don't expect there is a visible trail like a trace of missing grass damaged by lot of feet.

I only have a picture from inside the trail:

The road was qiute steep for sure (-: But the views were nice, I'd say, it was woth the walk (-: No, I haven't unfortunately. When it comes this kind of spotting, I got poor luck. I usually see only spiders and crabs, somtimes bull-bull...

There are a lot of them all over the rocks, where the waves runs over. I have some pictures in my travel report https://www.seychellen-forum.de/viewtop ... 6630e2f249   If you don't recognize them, can you recognize an overgrown unofficial hiking trail?

[Bong!!!]

Nope.

I will send you a private message later ...

What I can say to the public: where the concrete road make the left turn down to the coastline it should be possible to walk straight ahead into the scrubs. But this trail ends after a while.

Thanks.

Ah, I think that I know what do you mean. Isn't this place ? Not sure if it's visible on the picture, might be slightly to the right. But definitely same type of bushes. I think that it wouldn't be visible on a picture anyway.


I've noticed kind of sparse "coridor" in the bushes, still, quite dense, but visible. I've tried to go through, but as it was getting more dense I've decided to go up the hill and look for the trail start there as i didn't have info on the exact location. Truth is, that I don't like breaking through dense bushes with palm spiders in it (-:

EDIT:
Maybe I should've watched this video few months ago...
https://youtu.be/002b2sdpKOQ?t=327

[foto-k10]

Congratulation!
Now every instagram idiot will know, where she/he has to step in to get lost  
Responsibility is an unknow word for you???

In 2020 there was no sign and there was no visible space at the beginning. I had to push my body through a thick fence of scrubs. The rest looks familiar but was more overgrown.

[Suse]

Maybe I should've watched this video few months ago...
https://youtu.be/002b2sdpKOQ?t=327

After having seen the video I know what beach you were looking for. A friend of mine did the hike this summer and took detailed pictures, if you are on Facebook I can send you the link, it's not a public page so I can't share the album here. The abandoned hotel seems to be in much worse condition now as in the video above (which is 3 years older) due to coastal erosion and heavy downpours. The trail used to be quite known before the pandemic because of the "lost place".

[Bong!!!]

Congratulation!
Now every instagram idiot will know, where she/he has to step in to get lost.
Responsibility is an unknow word for you???

I get your point. However, this is up to each individual's own responsibility and proper preparation & realistic evaluation of own skills. Moreover, I don't think that concealment partial information regarding this (or any other) hike will do any good to your cause. It'll make it only more tempting. And last but not least, people you're talking about, I doubt that they'll search for any sort of information (or even came across) on a phpBB forum like this. These are flocking around Instagram or Tik Tok these days.

What I want to say is that we can discuss this topic here with a clear conscience, in my opinion (-:

After having seen the video I know what beach you were looking for. A friend of mine did the hike this summer and took detailed pictures, if you are on Facebook I can send you the link, it's not a public page so I can't share the album here. The abandoned hotel seems to be in much worse condition now as in the video above (which is 3 years older) due to coastal erosion and heavy downpours. The trail used to be quite known before the pandemic because of the "lost place".

That'll be much appreciated Suse, thank you for that (-: I do have Facebook acct., will PM you.

[foto-k10]

I get your point. However, this is up to each individual's own responsibility and proper preparation & realistic evaluation of own skills. Moreover, I don't think that concealment partial information regarding this (or any other) hike will do any good to your cause. It'll make it only more tempting. And last but not least, people you're talking about, I doubt that they'll search for any sort of information (or even came across) on a phpBB forum like this. These are flocking around Instagram or Tik Tok these days.

I hope you will be right.
And I hope, you will not get lost, "master of dead end trails"